By David Isaacs, Chef
Fish sauce is an often maligned ingredient in kitchen pantries. The concept (and smell) of fermented anchovies is revolting for some, even though it’s present in American staples like worcestershire sauce. It’s also looked down on for containing plenty of MSG. Culinary literature has spent the last decade debunking the myth that MSG is harmful, so we won't delve into that topic here. Instead, we’ll talk about why I think that you should put your fish sauce in everything.
Now, I don’t think you should go ahead putting fish sauce in your ice cream. I do think that it should be used liberally in all kinds of cuisine, and not just in the southeast asian food it is associated with. Fish sauce is a potent umami bomb that can act to highlight existing flavors in food. I add it to shakshuka as a shortcut to developing the strong umami taste of cooked tomato. I add it to chicken soup to add complexity and depth, rounding out the flavor. In dollar ramen, it can imitate the taste of dashi, a fish and kelp broth that is mixed into authentic ramen. In West African food, it makes a half-decent substitute for ground crayfish. It fits well with everything from chili to salads.
Adding fish sauce in non-asian cuisine isn’t a stretch. In Italian food, many chefs begin by throwing anchovies into olive oil to introduce an umami flavor. In Campania, in southern Italy, colatura di alici, a sauce made from fermented anchovies, is a common addition to food. Colatura di alici is itself derived from Garum, a fish sauce that was consumed by every class and creed of person in ancient Rome. Adding a touch of fish sauce to your spaghetti isn’t culinary sacrilege, but rather a culinary throwback.
The trick is adding it in when it’s appropriate. Fish sauce isn’t just MSG in liquid form. It contains inosinic acid, which magnifies the umami flavor of the glutamates (the G in MSG). It’s also sweet, smoky, and funky. When you add fish sauce to a dish, it’s a package deal. I add it where I think those flavors might be welcome. Roasted tomatoes are used as an umami bomb in pasta sauces, salsas, and stews already. They come with sugars and a smoky taste from the roasting process. Fish sauce has all those same flavors, with an additional funk that adds complexity and interest to the dish. That funk isn’t unwelcome - plenty of sauces and stews rely on fermented products like beer and rum to add in that funk. The addition of fish sauce doesn’t make the final dish “fishy” - you won’t taste the fish, but you will taste the difference.
I’m a fan of Three Crabs fish sauce - it’s less salty and more “refined” than competitors like Squid fish sauce, but cheaper than Red Boat fish sauce, which is often lauded as the best quality sold in American markets. For me, Three Crabs strikes the perfect balance for general use, as it isn’t as distinctively “fishy” as Squid, but is cheap enough to be used liberally. Since it isn’t too salty, you can use it as an umami bomb without worrying about ruining your dish.
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